嗨!大家好,我是 Watson!歡迎來到我的網站:)

今天來和大家好好聊聊這位時尚界中無人不知、無人不曉的傳奇設計師。

謎一般的設計

自 1981 年在巴黎舉辦首秀後,川久保玲就在時尚界掀起了革命,她那打破常規的設計,不只超出了一般人對於服裝的認知,就連業界人士也備感困惑。而令人困惑的並不是只有設計本身而已,就連她解釋設計的方式,也非常人所能理解。

例如 1996 年時,在一場《衛報》的訪談中,記者 Susannah Frankel 請她解釋 1997 年的春夏系列《Body Meets Dress—Dress Meets Body》(也就是俗稱的腫瘤裝),只見川久保玲靜靜的坐下,並用黑筆在白色的碎紙上畫出一個圓,然後就瀟灑的離開了,後來 Susannah 再看到她時,也已經是好幾個月之後的事了。

曾於 2017 年策劃川久保玲展「Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between」的知名策展人 Andrew Bolton(aka Thom Browne 的男友)表示,這個圓代表的是禪中的「圓相」(円相),以藉此表示「無」的概念。

此外,他也認為,除了「無」以外,「間」也是川久保玲的靈感來源。而這個「間」可以理解為「負空間」(negative space),也就是在藝術作品中主體以外,或是各元素間空白的部分。

Andrew 這樣的理解是來自於川久保玲曾表示,她喜歡在「無」和「間」上下功夫。所以他認為,川久保玲以大量的黑色來呈現「無」,並以特大尺寸以及奇形怪狀來呈現「間」(即身體和服裝之間的空白)。

而雖然我認為這樣的理解有憑有據也很合理,但事實上,川久保玲曾表示,她從來都不希望她的作品是可以理解的,同時也不喜歡她的作品被解釋。

所以,這篇文章我會一改以往的撰文模式,將原本的「先介紹設計師的生平背景,再解析他們的背景如何影響他們的作品,或是他們如何透過作品來表達欲傳遞的理念」,改成「川久保玲語錄大整理」。將她曾經說過的話整理成一篇邏輯通順且具可讀性的文章,希望能以最忠實且不帶任何主觀色彩的方式反映她的思想,藉此表達最大的尊重。

品牌名稱的由來

首先,我們先來談談 Comme des Garçons 這個品牌名稱。有別於其他多數設計師以自己的名字來為品牌命名(如:Rick OwensRaf Simons),川久保玲無意於推廣自己,而是更傾向採用一個能代表整個群體的名稱。

此外,她也喜歡 Comme des Garçons 唸起來的聲調(法文唸法)。另外,「像男孩一樣」(Comme des Garçons的直譯)也意味著她的服裝像男裝般色調柔和,不同於多數女裝的豔麗張揚。

I chose Comme des Garçons as a name because I liked the sound. It doesn’t mean much to me, I didn’t intend to promote myself, that’s why I didn’t put my name on it.

川久保玲

I don’t think of myself as a designer. It was a business, a group of people working together. I wanted a name that would represent the whole group.

川久保玲

It was for esthetic reasons that [I] gave [my] business… a French name—to signify that the colors would be muted, as in men’s clothes, not flamboyant, as many women’s fashions are, and because [I] liked the lilt of the French.

川久保玲

從零開始創作

除了品牌的命名有別於一般的設計師以外,川久保玲的創作手法也與其他設計師大相徑庭。

在我過去的文章和影片中,曾介紹過許多品牌和設計師,他們大多是從過往的文化汲取靈感,並將其轉化為自身獨有的創意美學。例如熱衷於雷鬼和爵士樂的 Nicholas Daley、熱愛龐克和電影高橋盾,又或是鍾情於亞洲男性之男子氣概的 Lựu Đạn 等等,都是如此。

但川久保玲身為一位真正的現代主義者,她主張不要從過去汲取靈感,而是試著將自身從外在世界抽離,並於自己的視野中創作。因為她認為,在追尋新的事物時,經驗反而會成為阻礙,唯有從零開始,才有可能做出那些沒有被過去任何事物所影響的服裝。

她致力於創造全新的事物並啟發大眾,希望能透過這些服裝帶給人們正面積極的能量。

Three years ago I became dissatisfied with what I was doing. I felt I should be doing something more directional, more powerful. In fashion we had to get away from the influence of what had been done in the 1920s or the 1930s. We had to get away from the folkloric. I decided to start from zero, from nothing, to do things that have not been done before, things with a strong image.

川久保玲

I create my own tradition… I’m not inspired directly by other people or even by places. I try to detach myself from the outside world and work within my own vision. Everything is very internalized.

川久保玲

When you look for something new, your experience may keep you from finding it. Looking for the new means you have to throw something away.

川久保玲

I begin every collection, every aspect of design for Comme des Garçons, from zero. I want to try to make something strong that didn’t exist before. By the very nature of how I work, I cannot be in any dialogue with the fashion industry or the public, or let myself be influenced in any way, by anyone or anything.

川久保玲

I try to make clothes that are new, that didn’t exist before, and hope that people get energy and feel positive when they wear them.

川久保玲

顛覆既有的一切

而她所追求的創新,也包括對於「美」的定義。她對那種賣弄身材的服裝沒有興趣,反而更喜歡中東服飾包裹的概念,她認為,時尚設計的目的並不是暴露或強調女性的身體線條,而是要讓人做自己。

她更表示,她的服裝是給那些獨立女性穿的,那些不被丈夫想法左右、有自身主見的女性。

What I do is not influenced by what has happened in fashion or in culture. I work from obscure abstract images to create a fresh concept of beauty.

川久保玲

I’m not interested in clothes that show the body. I like the idea of wrapping, like clothes from the Mideast.

川久保玲

Fashion design is not about revealing or accentuating the shape of a woman’s body; its purpose is to allow a person to be what they are.

川久保玲

My clothes are for women to wear today. One who is
independent. One who is not swayed by what her husband
thinks. One who can stand by herself.

川久保玲

也許上述這番話會很直覺的讓人將她與女性主義者劃上等號,但有趣的是,其實她並不喜歡「女性主義者」這個詞,不過她非常喜歡「反體制」一詞,因為她的服裝正是為那些有著正面想法,或是那些嚮往自由與跳脫傳統的人而生。

I don’t like the word feminist. I don’t like the word ambitious. I do like the word anti-establishment.

川久保玲

I create clothes for people with a positive outlook, for those who wish to live freely, outside of conventions. It is hard for everybody to understand my clothes and that’s all right with me.

川久保玲

不過,這種顛覆傳統的創新服裝,卻也常被不了解的人貼上驚世駭俗的標籤,又或是因其實穿性偏低而為人所詬病。對此她表示,她絕非刻意做出那些驚世駭俗的服裝,她真正想做的是對抗既定觀念,並以一個具啟發性的方式來創作與激勵大眾。

此外,她也曾說過,她可能會設計一些不具實穿性的服裝,因為她更著重在精神層面,對她來說,能夠賦予穿著者自信和美麗的服裝,比起實穿更為重要。

The fact that my clothes shock is genuinely never my intention. I do in fact want to rebel against established ideas. I want to work in an inspiring way and stimulate others.

川久保玲

I might design something that might not function as clothes. What’s more important is the spirit. If the clothes give the confidence and beauty, that is far more important.

川久保玲

話說回來,其實這樣的批評對她而言,反而比起一般的讚美還來得更加正面,因為如同先前所提到的,她從來都不希望她的作品是可以理解的,所以如果一個系列太好理解,她反而不會開心。她認為,如果有很多人讚美她所做的,那就代表它太普通了。

她甚至表示,如果越多人討厭她所做的東西,也許就代表它越創新,因為人們根本的問題就是害怕改變。

I do not feel happy when a collection is understood too well. For me, White Drama was too easily understood, the concept too clear.

川久保玲

Is it strong or not? That’s the only question. I need to create something new, something unlike anything seen before, if a lot of people praise what I made, it must have been just ordinary.

川久保玲

If I do something I think is new, it will be misunderstood, but if people like it, I will be disappointed because I haven’t pushed them enough. The more people hate it, maybe the newer it is. Because the fundamental human problem is that people are afraid of change.

川久保玲

結語

在這瞬息萬變的時尚界中,雖然不乏變化,但多數仍是站在巨人的肩膀上,奠基於過去並以現代的方式重新詮釋,創造出「新」的服裝。然而,卻有這麼一位設計師,不只將其視為阻礙,更果決的走下巨人的肩膀,步伐堅定的踏上沒人走過的道路,她從不回頭看,也從不滿足於現狀,從零開始,一點一滴創造出屬於自己獨有的語彙,創造出「從沒存在過」的服裝。

For more than forty years that I have been making clothes, I have never thought about fashion. In other words, I have almost no interest in it. What I’ve only ever been interested in is clothes that one has never seen before, that are completely new, and how and in what way they can be expressed. Is that called fashion? I don’t know the answer.

川久保玲

川久保玲懶人包

國家:日本。
風格:不斷追求從未存在過的全新事物,因此我認為不該用任何風格來定義。
品牌官網點此
品牌 Instagram 點此

品牌購買連結

Farfetch
SSENSE

最後,歡迎使用我的 Farfetch 專屬折扣碼:BFNCH

P.S.
1. 折扣碼不分大小寫,寄送地區限定為中港澳台。
2. 部分品牌不參與折扣活動,還請見諒。
3. 折扣金額會隨活動不定期變化,折扣碼也會隨之更新,還請多加留意。
4. 各大電商優惠活動可點此查看。
5. 若想和其他人一起團購省運費或湊滿額優惠,則可點此加入 Line 官方帳號及群組。

喜歡這篇文章嗎?分享給更多人知道吧!